Diporto's chickpeas
Here’s my take on Diporto’s legendary chickpeas
On my last visit to my hometown, I enjoyed a lovely lunch at Diporto with my dear friends Christos, Andy, and my precious Iris. We were fortunate to get the table by the marble stairs, right in front of the beautiful green window that brings in all the vibrant market vibes and aromas. Diporto, once a cherished spot for locals seeking wholesome, down-to-earth meals, has evolved into an urban melting pot where tourists and residents come together. Everything there feels just right-the marble sink, plastic flowers, wooden barrels, and the subtle religious details like the saint icons hanging on the lime-plastered walls and the incense burner (livanistiri) left by the beautiful wooden windows. It’s like stepping back in time, soaking in nostalgia and the honesty of simpler, unrefined days.
First comes the house wine, making the atmosphere even merrier! The absence of a menu or prices adds to the refreshing simplicity. Diporto's food is straightforward and timeless, with a few classic dishes that haven’t really changed in years. My favourite is their revithia the creamiest, most flavourful chickpea stew I’ve ever tasted. The buttery chickpeas, simply cooked with onions, marry wonderfully with the zesty lemon and warmth of the olive oil. A sprinkle of black pepper adds a perfect hint of spice. No need for fancy green garnishes - all you need is bread to soak up those beautiful juices!
Here’s my take on Diporto’s revithia. Onions are the unsung heroes of this dish, requiring slow, gentle cooking to achieve their sweetness and smooth texture. Patience is key-once the onions are ready, most of the work is done! Opt for good-quality, large chickpeas if available. Soaking and cooking dried chickpeas, rather than using canned ones, gives a nutty, creamy texture. The longer and slower you simmer this nourishing stew, the richer and more flavourful it becomes.
Big love, Despina xxx
Ingredients
500g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water with 2 tsps of baking soda (or 2 x 400g tins)
1kg white onions, peeled and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
4-6 dried bay leaves
1 or 2 medium lemons, zest and 25g-40g juice (adjust to your liking)
8-10 tbsps of extra virgin olive oil (feel free to add more if you wish!)
Salt and pepper to taste
Water or any stock you like!
Method
Drain and rinse soaked chickpeas. In a large pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onions, cook for 3-5 minutes, then add garlic and cook for 7 minutes until onions become soft and almost translucent. Add bay leaves and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until onions begin to brown/ caramelise, about 10 minutes. Cover with water and simmer for 20-25 minutes until onions are very very soft.
Toss in the chickpeas and lemon zest. Mix well and cover everything with fresh water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and let it simmer gently, stirring occasionally. If the water level gets low, add more water to keep the chickpeas covered. Cook until the chickpeas are tender, which usually takes about 40-60 minutes. Keep in mind that cooking times may vary depending on the chickpeas' “freshness”.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add lemon juice and generously drizzle with olive oil. Let it simmer for another 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Remove from heat and allow it to cool in the cooking liquid.
To serve, drizzle with more olive oil, sprinkle with black pepper, and add extra lemon if you like! Enjoy with plenty of bread and olives on the side.